On Friday night, someone posted on the Hot patterns facebook page about the Slouchy Fly Front skirt.
I’ve always been interested in this skirt, and since I didn’t have anything planned for the immediate sewing queue, I decided to download it and try it out. I’m not a huge fan of downloads, but I do use them if I have to, and I wanted the skirt. I figured that a skirt couldn’t have that many pieces of paper to stick together, afterall. I think there were 25 pages total that needed taped up and once I got them printed off right, the taping was the easy part.
First, I traced off a size 10, but then as I mulled over my sizes compared to the pattern, I decided that a 12 might be a better fit. For reference, right now, my waist is about 29 and my hips are about 39. As in 29-ish and 39-ish. I never understand how people say they’re a precise measurement. It seems that I can measure myself a few times in a row and come up with a slightly different number each time. Anyway, I traced off a 12 because I figured it was better to be safe than sorry .
Here was my first muslin. I did the inside of the waistband and the zipper b/c I wanted to try out those techniques. I skipped the pockets.
I slashed the center back waistband and that helped the fit immensely.
I made a 2nd muslin today and added a full butt adjustment. You can see in the side shot above how the side seam is pulling towards the back so I knew something was up. For the adjustment, I used a method where the back piece was split into 4 parts and you kept a hinge at the hem and side seam. Then you spread apart as much as you wanted. I wasn’t sure how much to do, so I did some and called it good. I’m sure there’s probably a technical way to figure how much you need..but I don’t know what it is. I think my amount worked though. Here’s the 2nd muslin. For this one, I only used the skirt front, back, and outside waistbands. For the waistbands, you only need to cut a little beyond center front and then you can just overlap at center front and pin.
I made one more adjustment to the pattern after that one, but I didn’t make another muslin. When I made the full butt adjustment, I did it to just the skirt part, and i think I needed to take it up into the yoke. I made that change to the pattern and cut it out tonight. I’m making it in some red canvas that I’ve had in the stash for a year or so.
For the good version, I’m going to change up the order of sewing since I haven’t tested this adjustment yet. My plan is to sew the front seam, add the zipper and add the front waistbands. Then sew the back seam and add the back waistband. I’ll be able to baste it together at that point and check the hip curve. Cross your fingers that it’s fine! 🙂
For the zipper, Trudy of Hotpatterns has a step by step tutorial and I plan to follow that exactly. I watched it the other day and then did it from memory on my muslin. I think I forgot a step though because I had to do a little fudging…but it was all okay.
Frankly, I think this skirt has taken bit of a beating that’s a little undeserved. While the waistband has taken adjusting, I can’t imagine a contour waistband this deep fitting ANYONE straight out of the envelope. A muslin or two is definitely needed. I was looking through my Fit For Real People book today they had a really neat idea for fitting a contour waistband. If you’re interested in this skirt, you might want to look that one up. 🙂
I hope to get some time to work on this tomorrow after work. Happy Sewing!