Earlier this week, I decided that lingerie might be the best thing for me to sew right now. I spotted the new Vogue 9218 and was smitten. Here’s the pattern:
Usually I don’t ask my husband’s opinion on what to make…but I did ask him on this one. Of the two nighties, he preferred the top one. The picture might be little on your screen, but the nightie has a bra like top and the bottom part is only attached at the center front. Here’s the line art from the back of the envelope. I will say it is tastefully sexy. 🙂
The bra part closes with little buttons. How cute is that??!!! I don’t normally go for “cute” in my wear outside the house wardrobe…but cute is just fine in lingerie. 🙂
The pattern is designed to be bias cut charmuese or something like that with stretch lace. I went into Needle Nook Fabrics earlier this week to find some stretch lace and Anne suggested that I use a red stretch satin. That was the perfect suggestion and I think it make the whole pattern much easier to work with. I traced the pattern one evening this week and then cut it another. Yesterday was sewing day.
But first…I had to clean up the sewing room. It was atrocious from the previous muslin making. Here are the before and afters.
Whew…so much better once it was cleaned up! I still could stand to do some organizing…but at least I found the table…AND could work on it!
Enough talk..here’s the finished product.
Red and black…of course. 🙂
I really enjoyed making this…but then of course, I do love to make lingerie. I like the tactile feel of working with lace and soft fabric. The nice thing about this pattern is that you can treat the bra and the skirt basically like two separate pieces. I first basted the skirt, then tried it on. This skirt is a size 12. Per the measurements on the envelope, I should be a 14…but I figured with the knit and based on the finished measurements a 12 would be fine and it was. For bra part, I think I traced a 10 cup, but then I had to take some off the center back to make it small enough. This was a super simple adjustment, I just safety pinned the back top together and pulled it on over my head to check the fit.
I chose to put lace around the bottom just because I could. I bought 5 yards of stretch lace and used all but about 7 inches.
Other than that, this was a pretty easy sew. I used knit sewing techniques rather than those described in the pattern. I did have some issues with the instructions and recommend that you read ahead to make sure you understand what you’re doing. Watch out for step 4 and a set of similar instructions a few steps later.
In that last sentence of #4, they say to stitch close to lower edge across front..I think instead of front they should say “center front only.” It’s confusing what “Front” they’re referring to…and the pic shows stitching at both sides of the lace the whole way across. If you do that, the step later where they show you to trim wouldn’t work right. Also, I think the illustration where they show the buttons is also incorrect. They show sewing the buttons on top of the facing, but at that stage the facing is on the inside and you’re really sewing them right on top of the back band. Here’s a close up of my buttons.
To construct this, I found two items to be essential. The first is washable wonder tape. I love this stuff and it’s very helpful for positioning of things. Here are the action shots:
The first pic shows the right bra cup attached, and the 2nd one was going where the tape is. You just overlapped then stitched. The 2nd pic are my little elastic loops. I just eyeballed it to make sure they were mostly even (although the pattern does give you markings.)
The 2nd tool is a pair of duckbill scissors.
These are used to trim the back behind the lace and they’re designed so that you don’t accidentally snip through your lace too. They help a lot although you do need to be a cautious still.
Here is the inside of the top part of the nightie so you can see how I trimmed things. I thought the instructions were a little confusing…and I’m not sure I did exactly what they wanted…but it works.
One thing to be aware of with this one is that it provides coverage…but not that much. My bust point hits right around where the lace and fabric cross…and I think that’s per design because that’s about where they show the bust point on the pattern. The dart was more or less in the right spot for me.
Overall, I had a blast making this. Vogue presented an interesting design and it was fun to sew (especially since I used the stretch satin.)
To go with it, I made a little pair of panties from Kwik Sew 2075, View D.
They took about 30 minutes max to make.
My black stretch lace was all used on the nightie, so I substituted with red. It works well enough. The pattern was simple and I highly recommend if you just want something small and coordinated.
I’m not sure what’s next on the to sew list…Maybe later today I’ll settle on something.