Another HotPatterns Cosmopolitan Dress and HotPatterns Plain and Simple Shift Top

Yes, I’m on a bit of a HotPatterns spree, and it will likely continue for a little bit.  With the last few things I’ve made, fit has been my  priority.  Once I have a good fit, I like to make the item a couple of times because I may as well get double the benefits for the work!

Here is the Cosmo dress in red:

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This turned out better than I had hoped!  I took my time on the fitting and went through a muslin or two to get it right.  For the blue previous make, I relied a lot on the stretch of the fabric to and I knew this fabric didn’t have nearly the stretch.  As I was working through this, I realized that my adjustments are almost standard for hotpatterns.  That’s a breakthrough for me! It will likely lead to even more hotpatterns being made (which is good since I’ve spent alot of money on them over the years and have a lot that need to be made up!)   I need to widen the shoulders, make a forward shoulder adjustment, do a high round back adjustment and a small bust adjustment.  If I do that, the pattern is pretty good.  Here’s my cosmo scoop muslin with all of those made.

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Not bad!  I like to look at the muslin to final garment transition…there’s usually one or two small tweaks that I’m making to the final version.

For the neckline on this dress, I knew that I wanted to up my game on finishing the edges.  I planned to use the a facing, but I also wanted it to look nice and neat.  In the past, I have had moderate success just following the instructions, but I never felt it made it quite perfect.  I went out to the web to find some recommendations and came across this tutorial:  Sew Maris Tutorial for Knit Neck Finishing.  I followed it, except for adding on my facing it turned out beautifully!  It is without a doubt, the nicest neckline I’ve ever made on a knit and I plan to use that on all my knits from now on.

Once I was finished with the dress, I decided to put that pattern away for now and go back to the Plain and Simple Shift Top/Dress.

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I worked on this a little last fall, but my muslin was all sorts of messed up so I shoved it back in the envelope for later. This time, I decided to start out with most of my adjustments and see where I was.  Before I could really begin though, I realized that the shoulder seams weren’t lining up right and my pattern was missing about 1/2  of width.  I posted on the HP facebook webpage and some really helpful ladies gave me a couple of suggestions.  After sleeping on it, I decided to just add on to the front, then make my adjustments from there.   In this pic, the innermost green was the original pattern, the red is the amount added to get the front to match the back, then the outermost green was what I added for my broad shoulders.

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While doing this, I also found that the front facing wasn’t drafted to match the curve of the front top.  Facings are easy to make, so not a big deal to fix…but if you’re ever sewing pattern, it’s a really good idea to walk the seams and check that kind of thing.

So, for my top, I made these adjustments:

  • High Round Back (Which created the need for a small dart at the neckline which I darted out in the pattern)
  • Broad Shoulder
  • Forward shoulder
  • Small Bust (removed 5/8 inch on the front pattern piece)
  • Raised the front dart by 1/2 inch, and reduced it’s length by about an inch
  • Added two inches to the sleeves (an inch in two spots.)

And here’s my shirt…

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It’s FANTASTIC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!   This is the best fitting woven shirt I’ve ever made.  To be fair, that haven’t been that many…but I have made a few over the years.    I’m suspecting that I probably need to make a  lot of those same adjustments on the big 4 patterns too.

Here are the detail shots.

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Overall, I love this top.  I’m going to make a red one like it next out of some faux suede.  This green faux suede was the “crinkled” kind for Joanns.  The red isn’t crinkled and I can’t remember where I bought it.  Perhaps Fabricmart Fabrics. Here’s a preview.

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I plan to work on it later today and tomorrow.  This pattern went together really quickly once I got through the fitting part.

Happy Sewing!

 

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