Hot Patterns Cote D’Azur Knit Top

Oh Hot Patterns Cote D’Azur knit top….let me count the ways in which you are spectacular!

1 .  Now that fitting is done, I can sew one up in a couple of hours (probably less time if I really rushed.)

2.  The V Neck is high enough that I don’t have to worry about any overexposure in the office.

3.  The bust gathers are flattering.  My husband even noticed that they were “enhancing.”

4.  It’s comfortable as all get out!  It has something to do with the dropped cap sleeves…heck, I’d even call it cozy…and it’s just an ITY top!

5. The length is perfect (To be fair, I added 1.5″ on for my long torso).  But it’s long enough to tuck into skirts and not have it pop out!

6.  There’s a choice of cap sleeves, a little longer than elbow length sleeves, plus a top, tunic or skirt, so tons of versatility.

7.  The V neck is EASY to sew…although it can take a few tries to get right.  Baste first, check, then stitch with regular stitches when you’re happy.

8.  The neckline lays nicely flat and perfect…with minimal effort!

Enough…here’s the pics of the two I’ve made so far.  There’s at least one or two more in my immediate future!

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And on me:

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For adjustments, I made what I’m quickly considering to be my norm, at least for Hot Patterns.

1/2 ” forward head

3/8″ hunchback

1/2″ tuck in front neckline

1.5″ added waist length

1/2″ swayback

.5″ SBA.

I think I have this one about spot on…these tops are fantastically comfortable.  I think this one is going to have to get stored in that special spot with my top favorite patterns!  Probably once spring rolls around I’ll make a dress version or two.  I’ve already decided that I’m going to use the short sleeve version on a could of yards I have in the the fabric collection.  Occasionally, if I see a print that I like, I’ll just buy a yard with plans to make it into a T shirt some day. I think this pattern will work phenomenally for that.

Happy Sewing!

 

 

 

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Hot Patterns Deco Vibe Artemis Knit Dress

On a facebook page I’m on, a group of us were talking about our goals for the year.  I was feeling rather goalless, as in there’s nothing big I want to accomplish in life.  My job is good, home is good, everything is good.  But…one lady came on said her goal was just to get stuff done…ahhhh, now that I could relate to.  So, I’ve chosen that for 2017, my goal is to “just do it.”  And It can be whatever I want it to me.  I’ve applied that to my sewing and have been sewing the things I want to make…not necessarily need right now.  Frankly, there’s nothing I NEED right now…all is pretty good.  Sewing what you want to make is much more fun than sewing something that you need!   On top of that decision, I’ve had a bit of an epiphany lately about some fitting adjustments and I think I’ve got them pretty well down…at least for Hot patterns brand.  I have a sneaking suspicion that I need to make similar adjustments in other brands, but I haven’t put that to the test yet.

Without further ado…here’s the Artemis.

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This dress is soooooo gorgeous!  I have no idea where I’m going to wear it, but something will come up, I’m sure.  I need a nice wedding!

It’s made from a textured knit from Joanns.  It’s a fairly recent purchase, and I want to run over later today and see if they still have some in stock.  It’s nice fabric.  Putting this dress together was easy…In fact, this could easily belong in the Hot patterns Fast and Fabulous line in my opinion.  I made a quick muslin with my adjustments, then plowed forward with the dress.  The armbands are a little difficult to wrap your head around by reading the instructions.  But frankly, I don’t know how to write them better. My advice would be to read the instructions, baste it together, then adjust if you need to.  You’ll know when it’s right.

For documentation purposes, here are the adjustments I made:

1/2 ” forward head

3/8″ hunchback (I can never remember what that’s really called) with a dart added to the back neckline

1/4″ tuck in front neckline

2″ added waist length (will probably do 1.5″ next time)

1/2″ swayback

8″ added length for the skirt.  The pattern comes with a band, and I knew I didn’t want that, so I just lengthened the skirt so that it would be long enough with a healthy hem.  I ended up with about a 3″ hem.

Also, I had to let the seams out below the waist as far as I could.  My knit didn’t have as much stretch as the one for the muslin did and I didn’t account for that!

I think that was it…I am ECSTATIC to have my adjustments mostly worked out.  I have bought a lot of Hot patterns over the years and I’m excited to be able to use them and know what to do.

In fact..in the manner of just do it…next up is going to be the Cote d’Azur top.  I’m hoping it works and I can churn out a couple of work tops from it.  I adjusted the pattern last night and will do a quick muslin later today.

 

Happy Sewing!

 

 

 

Posted in HotPatterns, Life, Uncategorized | 2 Comments

Jalie 2682 X 2, a Hot Patterns Layering Tank, Vogue 9207d and some other things

I’ve been on Christmas vacation and don’t go back to work until tomorrow, so I have had sewing time!!!!!!!!! Yay!!!!  It’s been so awesome!

Things I’ve gotten done:

Two Jalie 2682.  Seriously…I LOVE this top.  I went up three sizes to ensure that they’re be big enough in these thick fleeces.

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I recently bought some zippered pull over tops like this from Land’s End ($14 Each!!!!!) and they’re very nice.  I think between the 2 I bought and the 2 I made, I should be set for awhile.  I also bought some vests from Lands End and they’re really, really nice too.  I’m not a huge shopper, but the next time I want clothing like that, I’m going to go there first.  My sewing room and piano are both in the basement so I spend a lot of time down there and it is a little cooler than upstairs.  I find that with a fleece and a vest, I’m comfortable!

Here’s a pic of my hubby in his Fallout Apron!  I bought this fabric from Spooflower last year and made him some things for Christmas.  I only had just enough to make him an apron…and i had to put the print on it’s side.  There wasn’t even enough leftover for a pocket!  He doesn’t care…it’s his favorite video game, after all!    This is  KS 3613 without any length adjustments.  Kevin is about 6’4″.

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On to Vogue 9207!

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Overall, I like it!  I should have done a forward shoulder adjustment on it though.

That brings me to the next thing…the Hot Patterns Layering Tank. I worked carefully through my fit issues and love the result I got.  I did a series of muslins  and posted on the HP Fb page.  Here are the adjustments I made:  3/8th” forward head, a 5/8th” SBA, a 1/4″ front neckline tuck and I curved the front dart out by about 3/8th”.   I love my end result!  And this goes together very quickly!

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Today I plan to work on a sheath dress. I’m currently deciding between Mccalls 2401 or Burda 7137.  I want to take the fitting adjustments excluding the SBA and apply them to the pattern and see what happens.   I would love to have a fitted sheath dress…that actually fits!!

By the way, I’m also on Instagram as fabricthreadclothes. I’ve never been a big instagrammer, but I’m going to try it out and see what I think.

 

Happy Sewing!

 

Posted in HotPatterns, Jalie, Kwik Sew, Uncategorized, Vogue | 3 Comments

Christmas Gift Sewing

There has been a whirlwind of activity going on in my sewing room for Christmas this year!  It’s been CRAZY.  It’s been so crazy that I haven’t had much time to do anything but work and sew for the last few weeks.

Here’s what I’ve made…

3 aprons for my brother from Kwik Sew 3613:

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Sorry for the blurry pic!

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Wolves!!  I think anyway! 🙂

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#2…ha ha… I meant to take pics like this for all three, but I forgot!

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That looks like alot more than three…but I made each one reversible.  These turned out very nicely and I highly recommend the pattern.  I did have time to post on Pattern Review, and you can read about it here:  http://sewing.patternreview.com/review/pattern/130098

My only caveat about this pattern is to check the size if the wearer is any less than probably 6 feet tall.  It’s a man’s apron, and as drafted, it was dwarfing me.  My brother is about the same height as I am, so I took a lot of the length out.   The below pic is as drafted, so you can get a feel for how long it is.

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Next up, I made my brother’s girlfriend a cute apron (but only one!).   I used Butterick 5754  – blogged previously here:  https://fabricthreadclothes.wordpress.com/2015/01/18/aprons-aprons-everywhere-butterick-5474/

I don’t really have anything to add…but I will repeat that I love this apron!   It’s flat out cute.  (I should have gotten a better picture…but I didn’t even think about it until now, and the apron is in the mail!).

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During and after that, I worked on some keychains that I saw in the recent burda mag.  These are seriously cute and Easy!   I gave one away as a gift, and am still deciding what to do with the other two below.  I may give them away too.  I used ribbon for mine, but these would be super, super simple if you followed the instructions and just used fabric on the inside.  I’m going to keep my eyes open for other remants for the outside of these.  This was a really fun and fast little project.

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Screenshot from the Burda FB page

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My Creations in DYT Type 3 colors.   I used different ribbons in the right shades.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After making those, I wanted to make my sister a cover for her Kindle, so she got one from my favorite Ereader pattern., Kwik Sew 3924, previously blogged here:  https://fabricthreadclothes.wordpress.com/2016/05/14/hotpatterns-1144-deco-vibe-sarine-and-kwik-sew-3924/

The pattern worked perfectly…again.  Here are the pics:20161217_12152620161217_121542

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I hope that my sister will love it!

So…that is the last thing that I sewed.  Yesterday was baking day, so I made my favorite chocolate chip cookie recipe 8 TIMES, and baked them up.  In case you’ve ever wondered just how many cookies that is, here’s a pic.  I referred to it as Mt. St. Chippens.

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Everything got packaged and shipped out today!  I feel like having  a celebration!!    I’m looking forward to this week because I should be able to relax a little more, and maybe just enjoy the season!

On the sewing front before the holidays took over, I was finished my HP kimono jacket.   It’s done, but I’m not happy with how some of the top stitching has created some ripples, so I want to take it out and try again.  A helpful person on the HP FB page gave me some tips, so I’m going to try those and see if it’s any better.  Ultimately though, I’m not loving it as much as I’d hoped…and I’m not sure why.  Maybe I just need to fix those few things.   Here’s some pics of it now.   You can see the rippling around the neckline and my hem is off a bit at the bottom front.  They’re the only things on my fix it list right now.

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Inside view to show the seam binding and the underlining.

I’m not sure what will be up next. I’ve been thinking about making up a couple more Jalie 2911  sweatshirts because I really do live in them at this time of year.  I’ve got one on right now, in fact!   The were previously blogged here:  https://fabricthreadclothes.wordpress.com/2015/11/22/jalie-2911s/

We’ll see though…it’s just a four day work week, so I’m really looking forward to a nice vacation!!!  I plan to do a lot of sewing!

Happy Sewing!

 

Posted in Burda, Butterick, Gifts, HotPatterns, Kwik Sew | Leave a comment

Simplicity 1036 – Batgirl!

My office had a Halloween contest this year, and I chose to be Batgirl!  (cue music!)

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How fun is that?!  I’ve never made a costume before, so this was a fun, new experience and I really enjoyed the whole process.  I’m already thinking about what I want to be for next year’s Halloween.

Here are some pics of the different pieces.

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I worked on this here and there over the course of a week or so.  One of the adjustments I made was to the cape.  I knew I wanted it to be longer.  Here’s a shot of the pattern piece as is, and one of how I adjusted it.  You can see that my fabric wasn’t wide enough for it as designed, so I also had to skinny it up a bit as well as lengthen it.  It turned out just as I envisioned it.

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For the gloves, the pattern told you to buy a pair, slit the seam and insert the claws.  I wasn’t going to try to hunt down yellow gloves, so I looked in my pattern stash and found a few glove patterns.  3 in fact.  One was vogue, I think one was butterick and one was Kwik Sew 3404.  I looked a instructions and Kwik Sew was definitely the least fiddly, so that was the winner.   It worked out fine…but they were still fiddly to make.  I think my next pair would go much more smoothly…but I was glad that they matched the rest of my costume exactly!

If I were doing it again, the only part I’d change is that I’d skip the boot cover.  I didn’t like they looked and decided to go with just a pair of black boots that I had in my closet.  When I make costumes again, I will likely skip them all together.  I do like the bat shape at the top though.

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I did change the belt up a bit.  Per the pattern, your center “buckle” was to be a yellow bat.  I didn’t feel that was vibrant enough, so I tried stitching around the outer edges with a zig zag, but that was really messy.  So then, I took a sharpie to it to fill in the border. I wasn’t happy with that either, so I decided to just make one in plain yellow the same size as the chest emblem, but to over lay it with a black bat with the smaller size that was intended for the belt.  I much preferred this look.  Here’ the side by side.  This was made entirely out of felt.  I used two layers for the cartridges so they’d stay rounded.

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For the body, I didn’t use the pattern, but used a Kwik Sew 3052.  I don’t seem to have any photos of just the body suit, but it turned out perfectly.  I moved the zip from the front to the back.

All in all, I had a blast making this.  I didn’t win the contest (the Pope, a baseball bat, and a ghostbuster won), but that’s ok.  My costume was still awesome!

Here it is in action in the office, on the dress form, and on me at home so you can see what the boot covers looked like.

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Right now, I’m in the midst of working on my next project, the Hotpatterns Fast and Fabulous Four Seasons Kimono Jacket in a mustard wool.  Mine is not so fast b/c I have chosen to underline it and use the seam binding method to finish the seams.  It’s looking great though!  I will hopefully get it done this weekend, but no guarantees.  Here’s the pattern and a teaser.

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Happy Sewing!!

Posted in Costumes, Kwik Sew, Simplicity | 2 Comments

Another HotPatterns Cosmopolitan Dress and HotPatterns Plain and Simple Shift Top

Yes, I’m on a bit of a HotPatterns spree, and it will likely continue for a little bit.  With the last few things I’ve made, fit has been my  priority.  Once I have a good fit, I like to make the item a couple of times because I may as well get double the benefits for the work!

Here is the Cosmo dress in red:

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This turned out better than I had hoped!  I took my time on the fitting and went through a muslin or two to get it right.  For the blue previous make, I relied a lot on the stretch of the fabric to and I knew this fabric didn’t have nearly the stretch.  As I was working through this, I realized that my adjustments are almost standard for hotpatterns.  That’s a breakthrough for me! It will likely lead to even more hotpatterns being made (which is good since I’ve spent alot of money on them over the years and have a lot that need to be made up!)   I need to widen the shoulders, make a forward shoulder adjustment, do a high round back adjustment and a small bust adjustment.  If I do that, the pattern is pretty good.  Here’s my cosmo scoop muslin with all of those made.

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Not bad!  I like to look at the muslin to final garment transition…there’s usually one or two small tweaks that I’m making to the final version.

For the neckline on this dress, I knew that I wanted to up my game on finishing the edges.  I planned to use the a facing, but I also wanted it to look nice and neat.  In the past, I have had moderate success just following the instructions, but I never felt it made it quite perfect.  I went out to the web to find some recommendations and came across this tutorial:  Sew Maris Tutorial for Knit Neck Finishing.  I followed it, except for adding on my facing it turned out beautifully!  It is without a doubt, the nicest neckline I’ve ever made on a knit and I plan to use that on all my knits from now on.

Once I was finished with the dress, I decided to put that pattern away for now and go back to the Plain and Simple Shift Top/Dress.

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I worked on this a little last fall, but my muslin was all sorts of messed up so I shoved it back in the envelope for later. This time, I decided to start out with most of my adjustments and see where I was.  Before I could really begin though, I realized that the shoulder seams weren’t lining up right and my pattern was missing about 1/2  of width.  I posted on the HP facebook webpage and some really helpful ladies gave me a couple of suggestions.  After sleeping on it, I decided to just add on to the front, then make my adjustments from there.   In this pic, the innermost green was the original pattern, the red is the amount added to get the front to match the back, then the outermost green was what I added for my broad shoulders.

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While doing this, I also found that the front facing wasn’t drafted to match the curve of the front top.  Facings are easy to make, so not a big deal to fix…but if you’re ever sewing pattern, it’s a really good idea to walk the seams and check that kind of thing.

So, for my top, I made these adjustments:

  • High Round Back (Which created the need for a small dart at the neckline which I darted out in the pattern)
  • Broad Shoulder
  • Forward shoulder
  • Small Bust (removed 5/8 inch on the front pattern piece)
  • Raised the front dart by 1/2 inch, and reduced it’s length by about an inch
  • Added two inches to the sleeves (an inch in two spots.)

And here’s my shirt…

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It’s FANTASTIC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!   This is the best fitting woven shirt I’ve ever made.  To be fair, that haven’t been that many…but I have made a few over the years.    I’m suspecting that I probably need to make a  lot of those same adjustments on the big 4 patterns too.

Here are the detail shots.

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Overall, I love this top.  I’m going to make a red one like it next out of some faux suede.  This green faux suede was the “crinkled” kind for Joanns.  The red isn’t crinkled and I can’t remember where I bought it.  Perhaps Fabricmart Fabrics. Here’s a preview.

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I plan to work on it later today and tomorrow.  This pattern went together really quickly once I got through the fitting part.

Happy Sewing!

 

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HotPatterns Cosmopolitan Dress

Finally!!!  There were a lot of things that got in the way of me finishing this dress, but it is DONE!

For awhile, I’ve been thinking about making a teal wrap dress…but let’s be real here.  I live in Kansas.  It’s windy and wrap dresses aren’t the smartest. So then I decided to make a faux wrap dress.  As I was going through the dress stash, I remembered that I had traced off the cosmopolitan MANY years ago.

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I traced it off, then read some of reviews of people having issues with hot patterns…and I put it away without making it up.  Now….my skills are much better and I know that with a few muslins and the help of nice people on the internet, I can generally tackle most problems.  I pulled it out and saw that I had traced an 8.  Given my most recent experience with a couple of other hot patterns lately, I decided to scrap that and trace off a 6.

I wanted to make the crossover version and I ultimately decided on the scarf sleeve even though I debated a lot on that one. I had this teal fabric in the stash and I had a lot of it, so I decided that it would be perfect.

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I still have enough left for possibly 2 dresses. And…here’s the dress!

Overall, I’m happy with it.  I like how it turned out.  I did a serge and turn treatment on the neckline, which I’m reasonably happy with.  I topstitched the belt, but I used a zigzag so I didn’t have popped stitches all the time.  here’s a close up of the belt.

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For the sleeves, I hemmed them with mitered corners as discussed on The Sewing Diva’s blog post here:  https://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/2008/04/30/mitered-hem-hp-cosmopolitan-dress/.This worked out well, although I could use some practice doing it.  Here’s a close up of my one sleeve point.

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The front was a little low (despite me raising it an inch and a half or so, so I have sewed a little tack on to keep it closed.  I’d sooner have a tack than be worked about my bra showing!  I did end up doing some pretty big alterations and adjustments on the fly at the end.  At the pattern stage, I removed a healthy dart from the center front of the crossover. Then, as I was testing the fit as I was putting it together, I realized that the center front was still too long and a droop was being created, so I removed more length there. Then, once it was all put together, I removed about 4 inches total from the waist to the underarms.   My fabric was very stretchy, so I think this contributed to so much needing to be removed.  But…all’s well that ends well.  🙂 I’m pleased with it!

I have a thick red textured knit in the stash and I was contemplating making the other version from it while I have the pattern pulled out.  This dress would go together REALLY quickly now that I’ve made one and have the pattern adjusted.  I may mess around with fitting the bodice of the scoop neck version tomorrow.  🙂

Happy Sewing!

 

 

Posted in HotPatterns, Uncategorized | 1 Comment