Kwik Sew 1335, Kwik Sew 2908 and Simplicity 8228

The lingerie sewing continues!

Last week I put together Kwik Sew 1335.  This is an out of print pattern that I picked up from Ebay awhile back.

20160818_191914

I loved this cover illustration and just had to have it.  The pattern calls for a tricot, but I used an ITY that I picked up from the fabric flea market when I was in San Diego last year.  The ITY was gorgeous, but there was only about a yard of it.  I wasn’t sure what to do with it but decided that it would be a good match for this pattern with some complimentary yellow  stretch lace from the stash..

I think it’s perfect…I love that I can get something like this out of a few hours worth of sewing.  The pattern worked out perfectly, and some day, I would love to try the long version with the right fabric.

There was just a teeny tiny bit of nicely colored fabric left, so I made a matching pair of undies from Kwik Sew 2908.  This is my go to undie pattern and I’ve made it many times before.  For this round, I didn’t have enough fabric to do the full vertical pantie.  I removed about 1.5 inches from the top of the pattern, cut as usual and then added some of the yellow stretch lace to the top.   In this case, I serged the stretch lace on and then zigzagged over top of the seam allowance.  For applying the leg elastic, I did my usual one to one application on the front, and then stretch what is left around the back. This makes the panties cup well and they don’t ride up.

20160822_194546

This weekend, I worked on Simplicity 8228.  This is a newly released pattern and is from Madalynne.  I’ve read her blog here and here over the years and knew she had recently gotten into bra making.  This is a little bralette pattern, designed for comfort rather than support.

20160826_222022

I really liked the halter version, but decided to start with the racerback version.  On Friday (after picking the pattern up on sale from Joanns), I cut a test version and sewed it up.

As you can see, I used bits of laces from the stash.  :)  I love having the stash.  I 100% ignored the sizing recommendation and made a 32C, my normal bra size more or less.  Had I followed their instructions, I would have made a 34A. For reference…my underbust is about 29 and my full bust is about 33. The instructions also tell you to use fabric glue to put stretch mesh on the back of your stretch lace and then cut as one.  I totally ignored that too.  It just seemed like way to much work for a little bralette…but if you wanted your bra to have more support, you might want to try that.  Since the you were supposed to use the stretch mesh, they then told you to use 1/4 inch elastic at a one to one ratio to cover up the stretch mesh edge.  I totally ignored that too.  With all that, did I follow any of the instructions?  For the test, I used their order, but for real one I did my own thing from start to end pretty much.

Based on the test, the size was good. Yesterday morning, I went to Needle Nook Fabrics to buy some longer lengths of stretch lace.  Generally, I buy stretch lace in 2 yard increments, so what I had in my stash wasn’t quite long enough.  I think I ended up using about 2.5 yards for this version.  Here is the first finished product.

It turned out exactly as I wanted and it’s super comfortable.  Also for sewing it, I streamlined the process and threaded my serger and machine with matching thread.  I used the serger to put the pieces together, than I top stitched the seams down with my sewing machine.  It worked out great and was much easier than constantly adjusting sewing machine settings.  This is one of those patterns where it takes longer to cut it out than it does to sew it together.

Since I had such success with this racerback, I wanted to try the halter too.

While I thought I’d really like the halter, it’s just not as functional as the racerback, although it is sooooo pretty in this fabric.  I don’t feel like there’s quite enough fabric on the side and to fix it, I’d have to probably go up a couple of cup sizes.  I could do that and it’s easy enough to adjust….but I just don’t see the point when I really like the racerback.  Here’s the side shot on my dressform…you can see how the side bust just isn’t covered that much.

20160827_163725

For this view, I did use apply the elastic on the sides because I thought it’d help with support.  I would do this again if I were to make this version.  Oh, and that’s 3/8″ picot rather than the 1/4″ called for.  I don’t have 1/4″ elastic in the stash.

20160827_164605

Overall, I LOVE the racerback.  I plan to use the nude fabric for another one of those and then my bralette sewing will be done for awhile.  I found both of those to be fun little projects.

Next up will probably be the nude bralette, then I plan to work on Hot Patterns Lounging Pyjamas.  I have the pattern traced off and some muslin fabric picked out.  I’m going to start with the pants.

20160825_200944

One thing that’s been rolling around in my mind is that I need a good fall coat in a color I like.  I want a trench coat…but it needs to be adequately warm.  I need to start doing some research on this one!

Happy Sewing

Posted in Kwik Sew, lingerie, Simplicity | Leave a comment

Vogue 9218 and Kwik Sew 2075

Earlier this week, I decided that lingerie might be the best thing for me to sew right now.  I spotted the new Vogue 9218 and was smitten.   Here’s the pattern:

20160813_162520

Usually I don’t ask my husband’s opinion on what to make…but I did ask him on this one. Of the two nighties, he preferred the top one.   The picture might be little on your screen, but the nightie has a bra like top and the bottom part is only attached at the center front.  Here’s the line art from the back of the envelope. I will say it is tastefully sexy.🙂

20160814_133234

The bra part closes with little buttons.  How cute is that??!!!  I don’t normally go for “cute” in my wear outside the house wardrobe…but cute is just fine in lingerie.  :)

The pattern is designed to be bias cut charmuese or something like that with stretch lace.  I went into Needle Nook Fabrics earlier this week to find some stretch lace and Anne suggested that I use a red stretch satin.  That was the perfect suggestion and I think it make the whole pattern much easier to work with.  I traced the pattern one evening this week and then cut it another.  Yesterday was sewing day.

But first…I had to clean up the sewing room.  It was atrocious from the previous muslin making.  Here are the before and afters.

Whew…so much better once it was cleaned up!  I still could stand to do some organizing…but at least I found the table…AND could work on it!

Enough talk..here’s the finished product.

20160813_221653  20160813_221729

Red and black…of course.  :)

I really enjoyed making this…but then of course, I do love to make lingerie.   I like the tactile feel of working with lace and soft fabric.  The nice thing about this pattern is that you can treat the bra and the skirt basically like two separate pieces.  I first basted the skirt, then tried it on.  This skirt is a size 12.  Per the measurements on the envelope, I should be a 14…but I figured with the knit and based on the finished measurements a 12 would be fine and it was.  For bra part, I think I traced a 10 cup, but then I had to take some off the center back to make it small enough.  This was a super simple adjustment, I just safety pinned the back top together and pulled it on over my head to check the fit.

I chose to put lace around the bottom just because I could.  I bought 5 yards of stretch lace and used all but about 7 inches.

Other than that, this was a pretty easy sew.  I used knit sewing techniques rather than those described in the pattern.  I did have some issues with the instructions and recommend that you read ahead to make sure you understand what you’re doing.  Watch out for step 4 and a set of similar instructions a few steps later.

20160813_162635

In that last sentence of #4, they say to stitch close to lower edge across front..I think instead of front they should say “center front only.”  It’s confusing what “Front” they’re referring to…and the pic shows stitching at both sides of the lace the whole way across.  If you do that, the step later where they show you to trim wouldn’t work right.  Also, I think the illustration where they show the buttons is also incorrect.  They show sewing the buttons on top of the facing, but at that stage the facing is on the inside and you’re really sewing them right on top of the back band.  Here’s a close up of my buttons.

20160813_221809

To construct this, I found two items to be essential.  The first is washable wonder tape.  I love this stuff and it’s very helpful for positioning of things. Here are the action shots:

The first pic shows the right bra cup attached, and the 2nd one was going where the tape is. You just overlapped then stitched.  The 2nd pic are my little elastic loops.  I just eyeballed it to make sure they were mostly even (although the pattern does give you markings.)

The 2nd tool is a pair of duckbill scissors.

20160813_162528

These are used to trim the back behind the lace and they’re designed so that you don’t accidentally snip through your lace too.  They help a lot although you do need to be a cautious still.

Here is the inside of the top part of the nightie so you can see how I trimmed things.  I thought the instructions were a little confusing…and I’m not sure I did exactly what they wanted…but it works.

20160813_162809

One thing to be aware of with this one is that it provides coverage…but not that much.  My bust point hits right around where the lace and fabric cross…and I think that’s per design because that’s about where they show the bust point on the pattern. The dart was more or less in the right spot for me.

Overall, I had a blast making this.  Vogue presented an interesting design and it was fun to sew (especially since I used the stretch satin.)

To go with it, I made a little pair of panties from Kwik Sew 2075, View D.

20160813_162514

They took about 30 minutes max to make.

20160813_162354

My black stretch lace was all used on the nightie, so I substituted with red. It works well enough.  The pattern was simple and I highly recommend if you just want something small and coordinated.

I’m not sure what’s next on the to sew list…Maybe later today I’ll settle on something.

Happy Sewing!

 

 

 

 

Posted in Kwik Sew, lingerie, Uncategorized, Vogue | 2 Comments

Down for the count…but rising again!

Rising again…hopefully!  The doc diagnosed with me with pneumonia in mid July and I’ve been trying to recuperate.  No sewing has been going on…only dreaming and a little bit of blog reading/facebook participation (If you didn’t know…McCalls started a private facebook page!).   I feel like I’m on the mend (and I’m on my third antibiotic) and I get about a percentage point or two better each day.  It’s frustratingly slow, but I’ve been trying to listen to my body and not do too much.   I just had pneumonia last year in Sept and I think it took a good 4 months to fully recover, but this time, I was on it and recognized the symptoms much earlier, so I hope it won’t take that long.

But I am getting better and I may venture into the sewing room later today.  I’m not sure what to make though!  I want to make something though!  Any suggestions??

 

Posted in Life, Uncategorized | 1 Comment

Sewaholic Pacific Leggings, Hot Patterns Tummy Tamer and Bootstrap Patterns

I have been sewing a lot lately!  Over the last week or so, I’ve made two Sewaholic Pacific Leggings, plus one pair of Hot Pattern Tummy Tamers and I’m in the middle of testing Bootstrap Patterns.

So, first up, the Sewaholic leggings.  I’m a pear shaped gal…there’s no mistaking it, so I love the concept of Sewaholic.  I hope the new owners continue on the path Tasia set them on, but regardless, I have the Thurlow – which in my opinion is an indispensible pant pattern for pears.  In fact, I’m wearing a pair of my denim Thurlows as I type.  I have several other of the Sewholic patterns, and even a few that I haven’t tried yet.  I recently bought some active wear from Fabric Mart and decided to make some workout clothes.  (I do yoga in the comfort of my basement with gaia online.  I LOVE gaia online and I love the fact that I can have a class with a different yoga instructor everyday if I want. )  Anyway, I wanted to try a legging pattern, and I considered the Jalie Cora…but with my recent disappointing experience with the eleonore, I decided to try the Sewaholic Pacific Legging.  In short, I LOVE them!!!!    The first pair I made, I actually had the stretch on my fabric going the wrong way!  Ughhhhhh.  So, I quickly remade a pair and they’re so much better.

I am soooo impressed with this pattern!   On most pants like this, the thighs aren’t big enough and the crotch just ends up pulling down and driving me insane.  These are a size 6 which matches the measurements I was to use.  And these pictures are actually of the first pair where the stretch wasn’t  right.  This green fabric was the first up because it was a little thin and I figured that if I didn’t like the end result, it didn’t matter that much.  The other athletic fabrics are nicer (thicker) than this. I may consider sizing up the next pair a size or two in the legs just for a little added  comfort. The waist is perfect as is.  With something that fits this close, a slight difference in the stretch of your fabric can make a big difference.  I made the first pair on my sewing machine and serger.  My serger hated this fabric though, so I made the 2nd pair entirely on my sewing machine with a zig zag stitch.  I like that I can use the machine if I wanted.  I think my serger likely just needed a smaller needle, but I didn’t think of that until later.  There will be many more of these in my future.   In fact, I would say if you’re a pair, you need this pattern in your stash. They’re easy to sew…and it sure beats buying some from the store that don’t fit right.

Next up was the Hot Patterns Tummy Tamer.  This is a pant that I’ve wanted to try for awhile.  I needed a smart pant to wear occasionally during the summer (and I really wish I had these made in time for the office picnic….but I missed that.) I still don’t have good pics of these yet.  Here’s the finished pair:

This is a high waisted pant…Generally, I don’t mind that, but I think I need to lower it just maybe half an inch or maybe a full inch on the next one.  You can see wrinkles on my hip and I think that’s from the side being too long. I adjusted the crotch curve on these and probably should have done a little more, but I needed to move on.  I would recommend if you know what your crotch curve should look like, just make that adjustment to start.  My other tip is to change the order of construction around so that you sew the crotch seam last for easy adjusting. Overall, I like them.  They’re a sophisticated pant and I like how smooth the tummy is.  I hate it when my belt pokes out beneath my shirts, but it’s often unavoidable if I need a belt.

Last up is what I’ve been working on the last few days.  I found this Reiss dress that I REALLY liked and wanted to make my own.  Reiss Dress  After looking all over, and even sending out a request for help on PR, I decided to make a Bootstrap Patterns style, #41569.

Bootstrap Pattern 41569

I’ve never used Bootstrap (or it’s sister Lekala before) so this was all new to me.  I carefully took my measurements and entered them.  I added the pattern to my cart and within a few minutes (10 maybe?), my pattern was ready to go.   I printed it off and made a muslin today.

Overall, I am TOTALLY impressed.  After running this test, I retook some measurements and have ordered another reducing my bust and waist by .5 inches.  On the version in the picture, I had also selected the option of slight “tummy protuberance.”  (I think there were 7 or so “tummy Protuberances” that you could choose from.  My muslin showed that was unnecessary, so I also removed that from my 2nd version.  I plan to cut the dress out start sewing tomorrow.  I thought I’d like the collar, but I don’t so I’m just going to leave that off of the final version.   I cannot begin to tell you how impressed I am with this.  I don’t think it decreases the need for a quick muslin, but wow…it makes it sooooo easy.  The bust basically fit, and the hips basically fit.  I didn’t need to order another, but I wanted to test out the system.  I suspect you’re going to see a lot of bootstrap in the future.  I also bought a couple of other patterns tonight too.  One is a simple cami, one was a pair of sleep shorts and I think the other was a dress.   I haven’t decided on fabric yet for the dress. I’ll figure that one out tomorrow.  :)

Happy Sewing!

Posted in Bootstrap Patterns, HotPatterns, Sewaholic, Uncategorized | 2 Comments

Burda 8184 – Unlined Jacket

In the last post, I was testing muslins.  I decided to test one more, Burda 8184, and it’s the one that I decided to go with.  Here’s the pattern.

I liked that this was styled like a traditional blazer, just without a lining.  Since my fabric had stretch in it, I didn’t want to mess around with finding a comparable stretch lining.  An unlined jacket just seemed to be the easiest.

The pattern went together beautifully. I had some errors on the collar that resulted in it being not quite symmetrical…but I’m never still and figure people don’t generally pay that much attention anyway.  :)  Hopefully!

It turned out bigger than I had expected.  I did make two muslins, one in 10-12, the other in 12-14.  I went with the 12-14 because that felt like it fit…but I didn’t take into account enough the stretch of my fabric. With the stretch, I think I should have made the 10-12.  Live and learn though. I considered taking it apart to redo it…but I would sooner just take the lesson and move on.  I will wear it and I think it still looks nice.

On  the dressform:

I LOVE the little back pleat.  It’s cute without being cutesy.   The button on the front is just a hair bigger than I would prefer, but it’s okay.  It was bigger than the button hole foot on my machine.  I was irritated for a bit…but then I figured I should just try the biggest buttonhole possible from my machine to see if it’d work.  It did!!!!  I was pretty happy…I know a lot of people manage to make buttonholes without the auto foot thing…but it’s soooo much easier with.

Here’s the jacket as I wore it to work one day this week:

20160621_070312

I do have the sleeves rolled up in that pic.  Generally that’s how I wear them.  I did consider just making them 3/4 length sleeves to start with, but I like having the option to roll them down if I’m really cold.

So…lessons learned from this one:  Size down if using a stretch woven and precisely mark all of the collar markings.

Next up, I’m working on some Hot Patterns Tummy Taming Trousers. 20160619_174142

I liked the simplicity of this style.  Mine are almost done, but I need to fiddle around with the crotch curve a little more today.  I plan to get them done this afternoon.  Then after that, I’m going to try a pair of the Sewaholic workout pants.  I forget the name, but I’m excited to try them.  If all goes quickly today, I may have those done too.🙂

Happy Sewing!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted in Burda, Jackets | 6 Comments

A tale of 3.5 tests

So last week I did a test of the Jalie Eleonores.  I used a ponte knit as my muslin fabric.  Overall, they need some work.  I didn’t want to take the time to get them fixed, so I just put them back in the envelope.  The biggest thing I need to fix is the calves because I have ummm…athletic ones! The hip and thigh could use a little work too.  I saw that a pear shaped person did a review of these on PR today, and when I have time to try them again, I think I may just start with her adjustments.  Mine don’t look that bad…but I know that in a stretch woven, each of the issues would be even worse.

 

This weekend, I’ve been working on the jacket muslins.

First up is the Hot Patterns Miss Moneypenney Prim and Proper Jacket.

20160603_195358

There are only a few old reviews of this on PR and each one says that the sleeve needs major work.  I agree.  The muslin pics have a burda sleeve that I tried to use as a replacement.  It was still too much work to get right.  I’ve abandoned this one for now. Maybe someday I’ll come back to it.  I wanted to make a jacket with 1 button, not three. This pattern had three, so that was another thing going against it.   I could have probably figured out how to redraft it…but again, it was adding to the work.  (This is my .5 muslin because it never got the other sleeve!)

Next up was Kwik Sew 3558.

20160529_205817

This one had a lot of things going for it.  Cute style, one button, plus it’s Kwik Sew, so easy to use.  Here are the pics.

It’s not bad.  The sizing is a little off for me. This is a straight up small, and I probably should start with an XS at shoulders/bust.  It’s good at the waist.  I think I would also have to add a little length.  The pics have the 1 inch hem allowance on them so I think it’d look short if I left it as is.   Not bad….but, I was still less than enamored with it.

Finally was Burda 8279.

20160529_205830

I’m actually pretty pleased with this one.  I made a 10 at the bust/shoulders, 12 at the waist/hips.

This pattern is designed for shoulder pads, so I have them slipped in there.  My right shoulder pad is in better position than the left.  I think this one is the winner.  I do need to take a tiny wedge out of the front lapel so that it lays flat –  you can see in the side shot how the one side is bowing out.  I may add a bit onto the back shoulders to give me a little more reach room…but over all, I think it’s pretty good.  It doesn’t have the cuteness of the added waist seam, but it was super easy to construct and went together really quickly.  If I’m feeling ambitious, I may add that waist seam in.🙂  There is a current burda that is similar to this, it has the waist seam, but doesn’t have the design where the front splits apart below the button.  I want that feature…and the back of it has darts instead of princess seams.  I prefer the princess seams.  Otherwise, it is likely the same jacket. It’s been a super busy weekend…but let me tell, I got jacket muslin-ing down!  I’m going to read up on my adjustments and then may make one more muslin before cutting.  Here’s the fabric that I plan to use.

20160603_194156 (1)

I stopped in a Needle Nook Fabrics yesterday and she had old Kwik Sew mugs for sale.   How awesome is this???   It made my day yesterday!

UtaC, here’s my closet!!  I realized that I had forgotten to post my pic!  I love my closet.

20160605_210149

I basically have things arranged by the colors of the rainbow. Red is on the right, then orange, yellow/brown, green, blue, purple.  More or less.  Each section is arranged by sleeve length, so tanks are on the right, then Ts, then long sleeves.  I’m not too particular about it, but I do try to keep it mostly organized. It’s nice to know right where to go if I want to find a green T shirt! I saw this idea from someone on the internet and thought I’d try it.  Skirts are down below and dresses and full suits hang over on the left.  The whole thing isn’t super organized, but maybe someday.  The tops were most critical because I have so many of those compared to everything else.

Happy Sewing!

 

 

 

Posted in Burda, HotPatterns, Jalie, Kwik Sew, Muslin, Uncategorized | 2 Comments

Hot Patterns 1144 – Deco Vibe Sarine, Take 2 and Take 3

Hi…my name is Emily and I am a Sarine-aholic.

There, I admitted it.   I LOVE this pattern.🙂

So, take one was in a rich red.

20160506_100306

On that one, it was basically per the pattern with the kimono sleeves, but I used clear elastic on the neckline and I had added about an inch to the drapey part of the overlay.  I wanted my drape to be a little fuller.

Take two, I had just enough of this blue fabric left that I wanted to test out the cap sleeve version without the overlay.  On this version, I also raised the back neckline just a little bit more and took more width out of the back neckline. I also used the facings (fabric was just like the red and had 4 way stretch).

20160523_113222

I really love this version.  The back fits great, and I think the cap sleeves are more flattering on my figure.

Yesterday, the dress version was complete!!  This one was made in a brown fabric with 2 way stretch.  I used the facing, the cap sleeve,  and instead of gathering the overlay, I pleated it.   The pleats are AWESOME!  I used the same width of fabric as on the red drape (so it had an extra inch or so) and I just eyeballed the pleats and put four of them there.   I LOVE how they look.

20160529_20505520160529_205121 (1)20160528_165627

Whew – I look kind of wild in that shot!   But…that’s the way it goes sometimes.   (I wish I could be one of those people that only post perfect pics…but I don’t want to invest the time or energy!  I figure it’s a sewing blog..not a fashion blog! )   I LOVE this dress.  It will match almost every suit jacket in my closet and will mesh marvelously into the work wardrobe.  Spending the time on the fitting was well worth it with this pattern.  And as a bonus, I suspect I can reuse this adjustment on most of the Hot Pattern tops.  (Hello Sunshine!  It was a favorite before, but I can’t wait to try it again.)

Just for information purposes, I had to seriously hack into the upper back on this top to make the rounded back adjustment.  Here’s my altered pattern.  The blue slashes are my adds. I think I added a total of 2 inches maybe?  I should really measure it to be sure.  Too much time hunched at a computer, I guess!

20160521_133014 (1)

For the Sarine, my only recommendations are to make sure you make a muslin and if you think you might want to change the length, it would be best to build that into your muslin and not think you’re going to decide the end and then just turn up at the bottom.  The way this is put together, you hem the front skirt and overlay and then attach them together.  Then you attach the back and hem it up using that genius flippy method where you fold the back to the right side of the front and then stitch along the seam allowance.  Sorry, I probably should have taken a pic of that, but I didn’t think about it until now.  Jalie cardigan 2566 (My favorite cardigan pattern ever!!) uses a similar technique…see #15-#17 in their instruction if you want to see what I’m talking about.  Anyway, back to to the Sarine, you could adjust the hem at the end…but you’d have to undo the hems you’ve already done for the front skirt and overlay.  I didn’t want to do that…and I liked the length.  For reference, I’m about 5′ 5 1/2″ (those are about 2.5 inch heels) and the dress hit me at just below my knee (like the pattern said it would). I think it’s a classy length, although if I had thought it through before I may have reduced it by just about 1/2″…or maybe not.  Also, not in the realm of fitting, as a construction tip, when you attach the front bottom with the drapey drape to the top bodice, you want where the bodice ends to be right where the drape ends….Here’s a blurry pic…but hopefully it’ll help you understand.  In order to make sure this worked out perfectly, I pinbasted the drape to the top of the waistband, finished the bodice, made sure they matched, then basted the drape to the top of the waistband right where I wanted it before I sewed it all together.   Because I was merging sizes (and adding extra to my drape), I needed to adjust just a little.

20160529_2050551

For the size, I made a size 6 at the bust going to an 8 for the waist down.  I had started out enlarging to a 10 at the hips in the red version, but I ended up removing most of that.  My full bust is probably about 34 right now and my hips are about 38-39″.

Next up will not be another Sarine. I need to put that pattern away for a little while.  :)  But, I do plan to make some blazers to go over it.  I recently went shopping in Dillards and spent a ton of money to update my spring wardrobe…but I could still use a few blazers.  I’m going to muslin Burda 8279 and Kwik Sew 3558 and decide which I like best.  Right now, I like the classic look of the Burda and the Kwik Sew doesn’t have a lining, so I’m kind of leaning toward the Burda.   But…my fabric (that is being shipped from fabric mart) has stretch and I may prefer the version without the lining…so we’ll see.  :)

20160529_20583020160529_205817

 

First though, I’m going to try out Jalie’s new Eleonore pattern.  That’s the “jean” pattern with an enclosed stretch elastic waist.  The pattern has mostly gotten rave reviews.  I was debating making a muslin or just doing some pattern measuring at the calves and thighs and forging ahead.  :)  My calves and thighs are usually a little bigger than what is standard for the size. We’ll see how I feel tomorrow.   If that pattern works out well, I could see making several of those.   My casual pant wardrobe could use an update.

Happy Sewing!

 

 

Posted in HotPatterns, Uncategorized | 1 Comment