The lingerie sewing continues!
Last week I put together Kwik Sew 1335. This is an out of print pattern that I picked up from Ebay awhile back.
I loved this cover illustration and just had to have it. The pattern calls for a tricot, but I used an ITY that I picked up from the fabric flea market when I was in San Diego last year. The ITY was gorgeous, but there was only about a yard of it. I wasn’t sure what to do with it but decided that it would be a good match for this pattern with some complimentary yellow stretch lace from the stash..
I think it’s perfect…I love that I can get something like this out of a few hours worth of sewing. The pattern worked out perfectly, and some day, I would love to try the long version with the right fabric.
There was just a teeny tiny bit of nicely colored fabric left, so I made a matching pair of undies from Kwik Sew 2908. This is my go to undie pattern and I’ve made it many times before. For this round, I didn’t have enough fabric to do the full vertical pantie. I removed about 1.5 inches from the top of the pattern, cut as usual and then added some of the yellow stretch lace to the top. In this case, I serged the stretch lace on and then zigzagged over top of the seam allowance. For applying the leg elastic, I did my usual one to one application on the front, and then stretch what is left around the back. This makes the panties cup well and they don’t ride up.
This weekend, I worked on Simplicity 8228. This is a newly released pattern and is from Madalynne. I’ve read her blog here and here over the years and knew she had recently gotten into bra making. This is a little bralette pattern, designed for comfort rather than support.
I really liked the halter version, but decided to start with the racerback version. On Friday (after picking the pattern up on sale from Joanns), I cut a test version and sewed it up.
As you can see, I used bits of laces from the stash. :) I love having the stash. I 100% ignored the sizing recommendation and made a 32C, my normal bra size more or less. Had I followed their instructions, I would have made a 34A. For reference…my underbust is about 29 and my full bust is about 33. The instructions also tell you to use fabric glue to put stretch mesh on the back of your stretch lace and then cut as one. I totally ignored that too. It just seemed like way to much work for a little bralette…but if you wanted your bra to have more support, you might want to try that. Since the you were supposed to use the stretch mesh, they then told you to use 1/4 inch elastic at a one to one ratio to cover up the stretch mesh edge. I totally ignored that too. With all that, did I follow any of the instructions? For the test, I used their order, but for real one I did my own thing from start to end pretty much.
Based on the test, the size was good. Yesterday morning, I went to Needle Nook Fabrics to buy some longer lengths of stretch lace. Generally, I buy stretch lace in 2 yard increments, so what I had in my stash wasn’t quite long enough. I think I ended up using about 2.5 yards for this version. Here is the first finished product.
It turned out exactly as I wanted and it’s super comfortable. Also for sewing it, I streamlined the process and threaded my serger and machine with matching thread. I used the serger to put the pieces together, than I top stitched the seams down with my sewing machine. It worked out great and was much easier than constantly adjusting sewing machine settings. This is one of those patterns where it takes longer to cut it out than it does to sew it together.
Since I had such success with this racerback, I wanted to try the halter too.
While I thought I’d really like the halter, it’s just not as functional as the racerback, although it is sooooo pretty in this fabric. I don’t feel like there’s quite enough fabric on the side and to fix it, I’d have to probably go up a couple of cup sizes. I could do that and it’s easy enough to adjust….but I just don’t see the point when I really like the racerback. Here’s the side shot on my dressform…you can see how the side bust just isn’t covered that much.
For this view, I did use apply the elastic on the sides because I thought it’d help with support. I would do this again if I were to make this version. Oh, and that’s 3/8″ picot rather than the 1/4″ called for. I don’t have 1/4″ elastic in the stash.
Overall, I LOVE the racerback. I plan to use the nude fabric for another one of those and then my bralette sewing will be done for awhile. I found both of those to be fun little projects.
Next up will probably be the nude bralette, then I plan to work on Hot Patterns Lounging Pyjamas. I have the pattern traced off and some muslin fabric picked out. I’m going to start with the pants.
One thing that’s been rolling around in my mind is that I need a good fall coat in a color I like. I want a trench coat…but it needs to be adequately warm. I need to start doing some research on this one!